Importing 10,000 Tiny Pearls From the U.S.

On November 20, 1947, approximately two years after the end of World War II, Queen Elizabeth II tied the knot with Prince Philip at Westminster Abbey. However, even though the wedding included all of the traditions associated with such an occasion—including an intricate gown, ornate decorations, and an extensive guest list—the royal family had to pare back some of their usual spending habits for such a fête. The country still had wartime rationing in effect, forcing Elizabeth to pay for some of her dress with rationing coupons. (Some members of the British public even attempted to contribute to the cost of the piece by sending her their own coupons.) The construction of the ensemble required much more than just cutting and piecing together fabric, though; the designer of the gown imoprted 10,000 tiny pearls from the U.S. in pursuit of producing the stunning dress.

Norman Hartnell, a British designer, was tasked with creating the royal wedding dress, submitting 12 potential designs to the family in the process. Once one was approved, he began constructing the duchess satin gown. In Hugo Vickers’s book, Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, he reports that Hartnell’s team imported 10,000 pearls from the U.S. Just like other international shipments, the designer declared them at customs and paid the duty tax on them. While it’s unclear how much it cost to ship these gemstones across the Atlantic Ocean, the total cost of Elizabeth’s gown reached $42,000—equivalent to approximately $1.6 million today. In addition to the thousands of pearls that appeared on the piece, the designer also embroidered a number of symbols into it with silver and gold thread. Roses, jasmine blossoms, and ears of wheat—all meant to represent the concept of post-war rebirth—were stitched onto the ensemble, according to the Daily Mail. 

However, in addition to the 10,000 pearls stitched onto the gown, Elizabeth also wore a set of necklaces in the same gemstone, a gift from her father that had been previously owned and worn by Queen Anne and Queen Caroline. While the bride reportedly forgot this special heirloom piece on her big day, she was able to send her private secretary to retrieve the set before heading down the aisle. The pearl detailing even appeared on the newlywed’s shoes, a pair of ivory satin sandals that included silver buckles with tiny pearls, according to the Daily Mail. Elizabeth’s ensemble also featured a 13-foot train made of silk tulle. 

In addition to the pearls given to her before her nuptials, Elizabeth’s father also presented her with another heirloom set: the George VI Victoria Suite, which included a Victorian-era necklace with matching earrings. This gift was reported to be one of the most cherished in her collection—and estimated to be worth approximately $6.2 million.